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Nordy Rockler founded Rockler Woodworking and
Hardware in 1954. Over the last half century, Nordy has
spent thousands of hours in the workshop, building
projects and perfecting his finishing techniques. He's
regarded as a finishing expert, and has developed a
number of Rockler exclusive finishes. We recently met
with Nordy to discuss the art of finishing and some of
his favorite products.
Woodworkers often say that finishing is the
part of the process they struggle with most. Do you
share that struggle, and why do you think that
is? Nordy: Years ago it was more of a struggle
because there wasn't a variety of good products
available. In the earliest times a person would just use
an oil pigment, wipe on stain, maybe a coat of shellac
as a sealer, and then a varnish, which maybe took 24
hours or more to dry. Because it was so slow to dry
you'd get a lot of dust particles settling in it. Today
we have such a multitude of products available it is
much simpler, especially once you get familiar with the
products and use the ones you like. Finishing is the
culmination of doing a project. You can put a lot of
time and money into the material, and you can botch the
whole thing with a bad finishing job. Finishing is a
critical part of the whole project.
When did you develop such a strong interest
in finishing? Nordy: Well, when we started the
business. Finishes are a crucial part of doing
woodworking, so it was just sort of a natural process
that I became interested in it. Through looking at
various lines and talking to different salespeople, I
learned a lot about finishing. I tested a lot of
products, and I still am today. To keep on top of it,
you really have to keep on trying them and testing
them.
What is the main key in getting a great
finish on a woodworking project? Nordy: Two
things. First of all, you have to be very patient; don't
rush it. And the crucial thing is to test it on some
scrap wood and make sure you get the desired effect you
really want. Another reason for testing is you have a
schedule of finishing materials; test them all the way
through the whole process, from beginning to end, and
you will get a really good feel for what the end result
will be.
How do you decide which finish to put on a
particular piece? Nordy: The type of project really dictates
what type of finish you put on it. If you're building
cabinets or a bookcase, an oil-type finish is very
simple and pleasing, and very easy to repair. I woudn't
recommend an oil finish for a dining room table, because
you need more protection. You need something harder,
more durable, and waterproof. It all depends on what
you're building. It also has to do with personal
preference. Do you want a gloss, a semi-gloss, a flat
finish? Does the piece need a lot of protection? Does
the piece need to match another piece in the room?
There's a lot of considerations. |
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What are the benefits of
shellac and Rockler's
shellac kits? Nordy: Shellac is a different
type of material, and not necessarily used as a top
coat. It's a multi-purpose product. It was very popular
in the 1700s, and a lot of the antiques were finished
with it because that was the only finish available at
the time. It has its advantages. It dries very fast and
gives you a nice appearance. But it does have its
drawbacks. It is not completely water resistant, and it
can be brittle. Sometimes it's the finish you have to
use, especially for the furniture restoration people who
want to get a piece as close to the original as
possible. The pre-mixed stuff you buy off the shelf in a
hardware store has a limited shelf life. It's usually
only good for six months after you open it up. If you
buy shellac in flake form you can mix it yourself very
easily just by mixing with denatured alcohol in
different proportions. If you want to use it for a
sealer, or wash coat, you use a thin solution, what they
call a two-pound cut shellac. If you're using it as a
top coat or finish you want it a little thicker, you
want a four-pound cut. We came up with our new shellac
kit because we had previously been selling it by the
pound, which is a lot of shellac flake for the average
consumer. So we packaged it into a smaller 2 oz. size,
and they can make a two-, three- or four-pound cut,
whichever they want, and it has a graduated scale on the
container showing what proportions of denatured alcohol
to shellac to use. It simplified the use of it. We're
also going to be offering it in a half-pound
container.
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On what projects does a woodworker
want to use a polyurethane
gel? Nordy: You can use it anywhere you want
a urethane finish. Urethanes give you a hard, durable,
tough and, in most cases, waterproof finish. A lot of
people prefer the gel type for application as opposed to
the liquid type you have to brush on. It's just a
question of personal taste.
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When did you develop a
relationship with Sam Maloof, who is regarded as one of
this country's greatest woodworking
craftsmen? Nordy: I met Sam about 20 years ago at
the Southern California Woodworkers Association. They
had a big event. That was the first time I met him, and
I visited his home, which is really like a museum. He's
a great collector himself. He collects Navajo rugs, and
he collects pottery. He used to trade some of his stuff
for Navajo rugs and pottery. We have a nice
relationship. Rockler packages
Sam's poly/oil finish. The mere fact Sam Maloof
still uses it gives credence to the product.
Another highly-regarded finishing expert is
Michael Dresdner. How did you meet him? Nordy: I
knew him because of his work. He's a very popular writer
and has written a couple of books. I met him a few years
ago at a trade show. We sell his books and he writes
articles for Woodworker's Journal. He's a contributing
editor to our finishing department. |
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WunderCote, a water-based, wipe-on
polyurethane finish, is one of Rockler's newest
products. What are the benefits of WunderCote? Nordy:
It's so easy to use. It's in a flip-top bottle, and you
just pour it out and use a foam rubber brush over the
surface. It dries in about 20 or 30 minutes, although
our label says one or two hours. It doesn't require much
sanding (with 220 grit paper) between coats, then you
can re-coat it. I've done that in half an hour after I
applied. it. What's nice about a water-based
polyurethane is it doesn't smell, it's not carcinogenic
to the user and harmful to the environment. It drys
faster, is very easy to apply, and easy to clean up.
What's different about our finish is others tend to have
a plastic look to them when they're finished. Ours has a
slightly amber cast to it so it looks more like a
varnish finish.
Is there anything else you'd like to add
about the finishing process? Nordy: Like any
skill or acquired labor, the worst part is fear of doing
it. Half the battle is just trying it. There's such an
abundance of products out there that there's something
for everybody. There's just no end to products. There
should be something anybody can apply for a very
professional-looking finish.
We're constantly on the lookout for new products
that we're testing. We try to have a real wide selection
on the internet and in our stores. Usually in each store
there's someone that specializes in finishing, and then
we have classes at our stores. Mostly it's getting up
the nerve to try it and getting used to the products
you're using. In a lot of cases it's fun, especially
when you have a beautiful project and you want to put
the finishing touch on it that enhances the whole
project.
See Rockler's Finishing
Guide.
Return to Finishing
Department. | |
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